Guide 06
Cold‑setting the frame
Medium / one‑time / nervy
132.5 → 135 mm
Steel only
Gently spreading the steel rear triangle so the 135 mm Alfine drops in. It’s only
~2.5 mm and steel takes it easily — the care is all in keeping things aligned.
ELI5
“Cold‑setting” is just permanently bending the frame a tiny bit while it’s cold (no heat). Your
rear opening is 132.5 mm; the Alfine wants 135. You ease each side out ~1.25 mm so the wheel
sits in without forcing the dropouts apart every time.
Why it’s a non‑event on this frame
Steel is springy and forgiving — 2.5 mm is trivial for chromoly. (This would be a hard no on
aluminium or carbon; it’s a routine, century‑old steel‑frame move.)
How it goes (the careful version)
- Measure first — confirm the current spacing (should be ~132.5) and eyeball dropout
alignment.
- Spread evenly, both sides — the goal is +1.25 mm per side so the rear stays
symmetric about the centreline. The common DIY method uses a length of threaded rod through the
dropouts to spread gently and measure; many builders just hand the frame to a shop for 10
minutes.
- Check it springs and holds — steel springs back a little, so you slightly over‑bend to
land on 135.
- Verify dropout alignment — the two dropouts must end up parallel and in plane
so the axle isn’t pinched or cocked. This is the part that matters more than the number.
Honest difficulty
The bending is easy; the nerve is in doing it evenly and straight. If you’re not
confident eyeballing alignment, this is a cheap, fast, low‑risk job to hand a shop — and a good
one to watch them do, since it’s a useful skill to have seen once.
Tools (DIY route)
Threaded rod + nuts/washers to span the dropouts · a ruler/caliper · ideally a dropout
alignment gauge (or a shop’s).
Pairs with Chainline & tension — once the rear
is at 135 and aligned, the wheel/chainline/tension work follows.